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Come, enjoy the warmth!
By
Bobby Stevens
The Caribbean is warm all the time, day and night– and life's pace there is refreshingly slow. Gay travelers seeking these luxuries will find interesting possibilities in San Juan, Puerto Rico, a surprisingly easy destination for
North American and European holiday makers.
The weather in sultry San Juan is fabulous. There's lots of gay life, too, from the relative quiet of Ocean Park, San Juan's upscale beach community, to the bustling Condado, famous for its casinos and night-life, to Old
San Juan, where the ancient forts and cobblestone streets hark back to an earlier time. Main attractions here include several fine restaurants, a sauna, a busy harbor catering to the cruise ship trade, and of course the reminders of
old Spain in the New World.
Ocean Park is a gated, residential neighborhood. The beach here is packed with youthful sunbathers, especially weekends. There's a pocket of gay beach in front of the comfortable L'Habitation Beach Guesthouse (1957 Calle Italia; 787-727-2499), where Parisians Michel and Marie host. The music of a constant surf soothes the soul here, and if you're into body-surfing the waves are perfect. During your day on the beach it's easy to grab a
bite to eat, or maybe a drink, at the L'Habitation Beach grill. There's a large patio area with tables, if you care to sit awhile. It's a secured property, and the gate to the beach closes at 7pm.
The upscale Pamela's Restaurant at
Numero Uno Guest House (1, Calle Santa Ana) is situated next door. They actually set some tables in the sand, for beach-side noshing, during the day.
Hosteria Del Mar (1 Calle Tapia; 787-727-3302) is a long-time favorite of women and families; there's a restaurant on the premises here, too.
Ocean Park Beach Inn (3 Calle Elena; 787-728-7418)) is the other long standing gay guest house in Ocean Park.
In Condado there's plenty of action at the exciting Atlantic Beach Hotel (1 Calle Vendig; 787-721-6900). It's five stories overlooking the beach, with an active terrace bar (with direct access to the beach), the Sea
View Restaurant, and even a sun deck on the roof, complete with hot tub.
Since the administration change two years ago, the new owners have discouraged the prostitution scene that existed for many years on Calle Vendig. The hotel's guest policy now requires new friends to be registered
guests before being allowed upstairs.
Also in the immediate area are the Embassy Guest House (1126, Calle Seaview; 787-725-8284), where guests have access to a gleaming pool and sun deck (across the street) overlooking the beach; and the
timeless Condado Inn (6 Condado Avenue; 787-724-7145), with modestly priced rooms, just off the beach, where Doug and Matty host. Their
Downstairs Lounge draws "Wrinkle Room" regulars, along with their youthful Puerto Rican admirers.
The stately Hotel Iberia (1464 Avenida Wilson; 787-722-5380) is located two blocks off the beach in an historic mansion. There's a cocktail lounge, piano bar, and La Fonda de Cervantes Restaurant featuring Spanish
and International cuisine.
For other cafe and restaurant possibilities plan an outing in Old San Juan.
At Cafe Berlin (407 Calle San Francisco/Plaza Colon) the food is delicious and the ambiance is perfect: host Ernst invites guests to relax and linger, and the air-conditioning is set just right (not too cold!) There's an
extensive menu with an emphasis on the healthy and creative, and a mouth-watering selection of made-fresh breads and pastries. There's also an outdoor terrace in front of the cafe.
At Amanda's Cafe (424 Norzagary) the emphasis is on simple and fresh. Amanda's Mexican dishes, a lifetime in the making, are fabulous, and her sauces are available through amanda@amandassalsas.com. Folks
do cocktails on the front porch, or dine inside, high above the Atlantic and just across from the walls of Christopher Columbus Fort. Amanda's Margaritas, a signature drink, are made with the juice of fresh limes, of course!
Other references in Old San Juan include the elegant La Bella Piazza (355, Calle San Francisco), for Italian cuisine; the stylish Cafe Bohemio (100 Cristo Street, in the Hotel El Convento complex), where they do a gay
night on Tuesdays; and the exciting Parrot Club (363 Calle Fortaleza), a current hot spot with a mixed crowd. Call ahead to check their dress code; I know they do not allow sleeveless T-shirts.
The city's gay night-life is situated on Ponce de Leon Avenue, near Condado. Eros (1257 Ponce de Leon) has been San Juan's premier gay dance club for years. The crowd's mixed, though decidedly gay, and definitely
good-looking! With its mezzanine surrounding the dance floor, it's a perfect spot to cruise your new Puerto Rican friend. The uni-sex toilets are fun.
Eros's sister club is El Teatro (1420 Ponce de Leon Avenue), located a short distance up the avenue from Eros.
The other new one is the elegant Maroma (1060 Ponce de Leon Avenue, underground level, near Marshall's department store). It draws a young, mixed crowd, and is open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. Their
dress code calls for a minimum of "casual elegance."
Women seem to like Nuestro Ambiente (1412 Ponce de Leon Avenue), another new bar since
The Guide's last report; there were guys, too, and it felt like a nice party.
For more local flavor, there's Tia Maria's Pub
(Josede Diego, corner Ponce de Leon Avenue), the package store where you can also buy cocktails and play pool, and the eternal Junior's Bar (602 Calle Condado).
The sauna in Old San Juan is Steamworks (205 Calle Luna). The atmosphere here was more friendly than in previous years, and the guys at the reception were fun. The historic building which is home to this second
floor sauna is beautiful, and I believe the establishment has plans for future expansion.
So different, yet so near! Find out for yourself about the warm sunshine and the bright people of Puerto Rico!
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