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Surf & sun make Sitges Europe’s playground
By
Michael Thompson
Sitges
This seaside resort draws sun-craving tourists from around the world
About 35 kilometers south of Barcelona, the coastal village of Sitges, with narrow cobblestone streets, is a beach getaway for locals and a favorite summer resort for gay people from across Europe. If you don't need a car -- and you won't if you're staying in town (many streets are pedestrian-only) -- hop on the train. There is frequent and rapid service from Barcelona for a few euros.
Carnival is the biggest street party of the year here and one of Europe's gayest weekends, and hundreds of thousands of people converge to celebrate with fantastic parades and costumes. At the end of August, Fiesta Mayor honors Sant Bartolomeu with locals climbing to form human towers along with dragons, parades, dances and fireworks exploding everywhere.
The tourist season begins with the May Day long weekend and picks up through May and June, but high season is from July through October. That's when the really big crowds arrive, and events go full swing. During these peak months, Sitges becomes a linguistic melting pot of every European language, and local people welcome the influx of gay people. Most gay establishments are clustered in the center of town within easy walking distance of one another, and a free gay map, widely available, makes it easy to navigate.
Many places are open year-round, particularly on weekends, and with fewer people and lower rates, off-season Sitges is the perfect get-away for those who like a more tranquil scene.
The website GaySitgesGuide.com has updated gay listings and local events, while Sitgesvida.com has more general info.
Accommodations and beach
From the train station it's a short walk to Hotel Liberty (Isla de Cuba 45; +34-93-811-0872), not far from all points gay. The rooms have satellite TV and CD/DVD player (DVD rentals are available), an in-room shower bathroom, mini-bar fridge, direct-dial phone, and terrace or balcony. They serve a generous complimentary breakfast and have a bar and a pleasantly shady tropical garden. Owners John and Eddy bring together a friendly and sociable international mix here; they and the staff are exceptionally helpful and informative. The Liberty is now a part of the Attitude Group of hotels, and they remain open all year-round.
Parrots Hotel (Joan Tarrida 16; +34-93-894-1350) is a gay hotel two minutes' walk from the beach. A basement sauna/spa is scheduled to open in July.
Hotel Romántic (Isidre 33; +34-93-894-8375), open for the summer season, has old-world atmosphere in three 19th-century villas, and many of their rooms have terraces overlooking their garden. Wall murals here depict religious and folk lore of Spain. The nearby Hotel Renaixenca (Isla de Cuba 7; +34-93-894-8375), like the Rómantic, is gay-friendly, slightly more luxurious, and open all year.
Los Globos Hotel (Sra. de Montserrat; +34-93-894-9374) is another gay-friendly option overlooking the water.
Sitges's popularity makes reservations a must in the summertime, as far in advance as you can. To make it easy, R.A.S. Hotel/Apartment Reservations (Room Advice Service; +34-60-714-9451; Raservice.com) provides multi-lingual assistance for finding hotel rooms and apartments at the best rates, in Sitges and elsewhere in Spain, anytime throughout the year. You can find availability and reserve rooms on their website.
There are two beautiful gay guesthouses in the countryside outside the bustle of downtown. La Masia Casanova (+34-93-818-8058) is luxurious with superb hillside views; the place is a former wine farm dating from 1842, just seven miles from Sitges, and open year-round. They have seven suites with private baths, television and DVDs, wi-fi, plus a large clothing-optional swimming pool, sauna, Turkish bath, and jacuzzi.
Hotel Masia Sumidors (+34-93-896-2061), near Sant Pere de Ribes, is a 400 year-old old Catalan masia in the Garraf National Park, with nine rustic rooms, a swimming pool, solarium, and aromatic sauna. This tranquil retreat offers escape from the stresses of modern life, yet it's close to all the Sitges nightlife and a local 18-hole golf course. They're open all year, except for the Christmas and New Year holidays.
In Sitges, the first gay beach is a five-minute walk south from town, going southwest from the center, in front of Picnic Restaurant. The more exclusively gay nudist beach, Playa del Muerto, is a 45-minute hike further down, past the last hotel and the new golf course. Follow the path over the hill beyond the L'Atlantida parking lot to the pebble beach on the other side. There's an active cruising area among the rocks behind the beach by the train tracks.
Another nude but mixed beach lies to the northeast at Playa dels Balmins. Follow the coastal path, past a long strip of sand, up the hill and beyond the cemetery and you'll soon know when you've arrived.
Nightlife
Most of the action here is late. Dining hours are typically late evening, and then at 10 or 10:30 most bars open their doors. Many have happy hours drink prices to coax folks before midnight when most people step out to party. After 3 a.m. bars close and the disco clubs fill up.
An early exception to the rule is Parrot's Pub (Plaça Industria), with terrace tables and chairs on a well-traveled pedestrian street of cafes. Cocktails, appetizer snacks, and people watching are the main attractions here.
At the video music bar B-Side (Gaudenci 7) an international mix of guys hang out with Fabio and Neil and chat in all the many languages over aperitifs, from 10 p.m. until 3:30 a.m, every night, all year-long. The TV monitors show music videos and sensual imagery. Their darkroom downstairs plays more hard-core videos, and they hold underwear and naked parties on Mondays and Wednesdays. Totally nude strippers perform five times each week in the summertime.
In the next street, Bourbon's (Bonaventura 13), a Sitges favorite for 27 years, began a new chapter when Edinson and Manolo took over this year. Carrying on the old traditions, the spirits flow here with the best prices in town all night -- not just during happy hours. They really pull a crowd, seven nights a week in-season, and during Carnival and other holidays. Lots of cruising takes place amidst the bright glass/metal industrial decor, and their darkroom has an intriguing view. In summer they're open daily, from 10 p.m. to 3:30 a.m. Off-season they're open weekends and holidays.
El Piano (Bonaventura, 37) is a charming and engaging cabaret and piano bar where Stephen and Wayne can be found behind the bar, or behind a microphone -- along with a variety of other talented performers from all around Europe. This comfortable and relaxing entertainment venue has a welcoming ambience that encourages easy conversation and pleasant encounters. Pass through to find more room at the rear. Later this year the front area will be expanded.
Mediterraneo (Bonaventura 6) opens for Carnival, and then again for the summer season. A late crowd fills the dance floor and their two chill-out lounges on two levels. The spacious back area, with vaulted glass ceiling and walls of climbing bougainvillea and ivy, is the perfect spot for happy hour cocktails from 10 p.m.
Also on this street are Azul (Bonaventura 10), an intimate pub, and Man Bar (Bonaventura 19) with industrial decor, dark room action, and summer theme events.
On the other side of Cap de la Vila (the main square), one of the town's most venerable institutions is the sparkling El Candil (Carreta 9). Join hosts Sebastian and José at what may become one of your favorite haunts after the welcome you'll receive here. With dancing every night, VJ Andrea pumping out the music videos, and lots of young, cute guys, El Candil is definitely on Sitges's must-visit circuit. The cruisy bathroom shows videos, and their darkroom is well-attended and immaculately maintained. A bedroom has been added to this dark area in case you want to sweep someone literally off his feet. A very efficient air filter/conditioning system keeps the air (and your clothes) smelling sweet, too.
Opposite is Prinz (Nou 4), a big favorite with locals that has both drag and strip shows.
At town center, Bear's (Bonair 17) says it all with their name. This is a congenial and cruisy men-only video bar with two darkrooms, a sling, and St. Andrew's cross. Male videos play throughout, and guys are encouraged to go shirtless. There are alternate Sundays afternoon fisting events, and naked and underwear parties too, Wednesdays from 6 p.m. A varied and international mix of guys comes here nightly in season, weekends in the winter, and throughout the Carnival and Easter events. Bear's has another bar in Benidorm as well.
Orek's (Bonaire 13), two doors down, is a popular, centrally-located, and energetic music bar with an international mix of people and stripper shows three times weekly during the summer. On Wednesday's disco night they play '70s and '80s music. Open all year from 10:30 p.m. until 3:30 a.m. daily, Oreks has happy hour until midnight and a cruisy backroom that's a must stop in your Sitges rounds of the town.
Privilege (Bonaire 24) attracts a crowd of the young and beautiful, and they have table dancers on Tuesdays and Sundays, and Wednesday striptease dancers.
Nearby El Horno (Joan Tarrida 6) is favored by locals and tourists alike, with a denim-leather accent and a popular dark room, open daily.
XXL (Joan Tarrida 7), across the street, has dancing downstairs, and serious upstairs darkroom cruising.
Seven (Nou 7), at the edge of the downtown scene, is one of Sitges's most popular gay hangouts, with a crowd that includes expats and tourists, especially English ones.
Other local bars include: Casa Blanca Bears (Pau Barrabeitg 5), a bear bar with darkroom; Comodin Bar (Tacó 4), with a mature crowd and drag shows every summer night, and on winter weekends; New Port (Tacó 1-3), a new dance and show bar; La Locacola (Bonaire 35) a tiny year-round meeting place for tranquil music, aperitifs, and conversation; Le Male (Centro Commercial, Oasis 28) offering dancing, darkroom frolic, and summer sex parties; Marypili (Joan Tarrida 14) a cafe/bar by and for women; Perfil Bar (Espalter 7), a small, intimate locals' favorite; and Blondies (Port Alegre 10), near Platya de Sant Sebastiá (the beach), a small cafe and bar that's pleasantly off the beaten track.
When the bars close, everyone heads for the late-night discos. At Organic Club (Bonaire 15) they play a mix of Europop, techno, house, and Spanish music for shirtless and rapturously unbridled guys working the dance floor. Trailer Disco (Angel Vidal 36), the other gay disco, is known for loud, harder, cutting-edge sound and has picked up again in popularity. Ricky's (Pau 25) has gay Friday-night dancing, and in wintertime they mix everyone up together nicely.
The Gay Beach Party on Tuesday nights at disco L'Atlantida (Passeig Marètim) is open air, with its own beachfront. A free bus takes you from in front of the Calipolis Hotel and the party goes from midnight until dawn.
Sauna Sitges (Espalter 11) is an any day (from 4 p.m.) place for hot, steamy fun and frequent special parties such as their Spuma, or "foam," affairs.
Dining and shopping
Cine Cafe (Jesus 55) is a new Anglo-American bar and grill with the "best English breakfast in Sitges" from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m. Specialties here include great homemade burgers and ribs, crisp salads, and juicy grills. The decor includes genuine props and memorabilia from some of the biggest movies of all time, and affable hosts John and David show English-language movies here twice daily. The kitchen serves until 11 p.m. but they're open until midnight, daily except Tuesdays.
Ogmios (Boneventura 17) features Spanish Market cuisine, using only fresh food that's purchased each day, prepared with unique elaboration, and presented in a prix fixe menu of three courses. Open daily from 8 p.m. for dinner (also open for weekend lunch during the winter), you may be greeted and have your order taken in Catalan, Spanish, English, French, Greek, or Italian -- and might recognize the affable Fabio of B Side bar as one of your hosts here, too.
El Trull Restaurant (Mossèn Fèlix Clarà 3) is one of the restaurants you travel for: enjoy impeccably prepared, imaginative food with a friendly welcome from Carlos and Angelo. Their picture-book, step-lane, old-world setting is just off the Carrer Major.
Monroe's (Pau 36) is open all year, with varied international choices of quality food and good value for your money in a fun environment.
Parrots Restaurant (Joan Tarrida 18) has street terrace seating, and their cuisine combines that of Switzerland and the Mediterranean.
Alma Restaurant (Tacó 16) and Les Enfants Terribles (Sant Bartomeu 40) serve French cuisine. Ma Maison Restaurant (Bonaire 28) and El Jardin (Bonaire 26) feature French and international dishes in a garden setting.
Pizza del Pecado (Parellades 76) has good, quick and inexpensive slices of many varieties (25 by a recent count), for tasty snacks on the run.
Other local favorites include: Cafe Sitges (Pau 32) for breakfast, then pizza, coffees, and cocktails; La Borda (Bonaventura 5), with traditional Catalan cuisine; La Torka (Pere 26), with Spanish market fare; Beach House (Pau 34), with an eclectic menu from a pair of far-traveled Australians; Margarita (Paseo de la Ribera 8), a terrace bar and restaurant at the beach with English breakfasts, lunch, and dinner; and O Vesuvio (Carreta 10) for Italian specialties.
Two young Californians opened a new shop this year, Origen (Pere 1), specializing in authentic traditional Spanish ceramics, with beautiful tiles, plates, and other pottery items from this region.
Many local galleries offer paintings, mostly of local scenery that hark back to Sitges's fishing village past. For studies of the male human form there are drawings, paintings, and photographs of classically posed nudes at the small gallery of Blanca de Nicolás (Paseo de Vilanova 43). For a different kind of Sitges souvenir, check out Tattoo Sacred (Parellades 39) for body enhancements with ink or piercings.
Clothing boutiques with the latest in fashion abound in Sitges. The clothes at Ovlas (Francesc 22) are designed to bring sexy back into fashion.
Other stylish shops include Boyzone (Bonaventura 18), Les Garçons Fashionwear (Gaudenci 12), Franc (Parellades 26), and Jazz Boutique (Bonaire 20).
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