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Travel Article	Travel Article Archive

By Bobby Stevens

Amy (r) and her mom of the West End Grill We Have 10 Photos From St. Croix! View Thumbnails View Slideshow

Laid-back St. Croix is quieter than any vacation spot I know. It's a warm, sunny, beautiful place, caressed by the Caribbean Sea. Visitors to this enchanted isle will find that when the telephones don't work (they sometimes don't), or when the buses don't run (they sometimes don't) it only adds to the quality of life! The people who live here are bright, beautiful, and unplugged from stateside worries.

Gay life on the island is concentrated in Frederiksted, on the quiet, west end of St. Croix. Just down the beach from the center of town you'll be charmed by Sand Castle On The Beach Hotel & Resort (127 Smithfield; 800-524-2018 or 340-772-1205), where the Caribbean is at your doorstep! The resort's deluxe suites are huge, complete with living room, bedroom (king beds), bath, kitchenette, and balcony. Some rooms have an ocean view, and all are within earshot of the beach. There's a fresh-water pool and a sun deck overlooking the beach, and a second complex of rooms with their own pool (across the street), where nude sunbathing is the thing. A seaside restaurant at the resort is under construction, and there are plans for an actors studio series. Guests may also avail themselves of Sand Castle's massage services.

There's action in town, too. Frederiksted's gay bar Fifty 7 King Street (57 King Street, in the back courtyard, formerly The Last Hurrah) draws a mixed crowd that parties late! They do a DJ and dancing weekends and other special events (like strippers) during the season.

For fabulous sandwiches and other picnic food pop in to the friendly Turtles Deli (625 Strand Street; closed Sundays). Their upstairs Cafe du Soleil (625 Strand Street) was undergoing finishing touches (including an eye-catching, brightly-colored wall and ceiling mural depicting the mystical Caribbean) at my recent visit; it should be open for sunset dining within days.

For authentic French cuisine visit the intimate Le St. Tropez (67 King Street), run by French chef Andre Ducrot and his wife Daniele. Dinner is served on a open-air terrace, and there's always someone to chat up at the attached bar.

The West End Grill (16A King Street) is run by Amy and her mom. Plan a lunch here, where they feature mouth-watering island specialties (and big portions!)

The Blue Moon Cafe (17 Strand) is another place for delicious dining, indoors or out, and they feature frequent live jazz.

Changes in L'Attitude (72A la Grange) is a cool place, right on the sand, within walking distance just north of Fredsted, while the Sunset Grill (1A Estate William, at Sprat Hall Beach), another beach restaurant, is a little father out. You'll probably want to grab a cab to get there.

Just a stone's throw from Sand Castle On the Beach, on the knoll above it, the former Seaview Farm Inn is now presided over by Jim Hoffman (180 Two Brothers; 340-772-1263) who offers massage services, and long-term vacation rentals.

Visitors will find it easy to unplug themselves at the amazing Cormorant Beach Club (4126 La Grande Princesse; 800-548-4460/340-778-8920), just outside bustling Christiansted. It's a beautiful palm-studded setting with deluxe units just steps from the water. In addition to a large pool and tennis courts, there are a bar and restaurant at this secluded spot where visitors and West Indians like to mix. The Cormorant Beach Club also offers several deluxe vacation condos.

The Pink Fancy (27 Prince Street; 340-773-8460) is the other gay friendly accommodation in the Christiansted area. It's a renovated 18th century mahogany-accented town house where romantic, antique-filled suites surround a central courtyard and pool. It's run by Motasem and David who cater to a mixed clientele.

For upscale vacation rental properties around Frederiksted contact Sandra Davis at Richards & Ayre Associates-Century 21 (340 Strand; 340-772-0420). Their properties include on-the-beach condos just north and south of town, plus vacation villas. Sandra knows the local real estate scene and she's the one to call for home-buying as well.

Be forewarned: chances are, once you've visited, you'll make plans to return.