Come find your own Big Ben
By
Michael J. Darton
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Click on the link for a handy PDF version of our May 2008 London travel feature!
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With phallic Big Ben as its internationally recognized icon, is it any wonder that London sports a vast and vigorous gay scene?
London continues to attract millions of tourists each year, drawn by he metropolis's inimitable sights, spectacles, shopping, and nightlife. People queue daily to ride the London Eye, a huge state-of-the-art Ferris wheel
with viewing pods, boasting breathtaking, 360-degree views of the city. Trafalgar Square, where Nelson's Column stands, is now a pedestrian-only zone, making your trip to visit the famous National Portrait Gallery all the
more enjoyable. And Notting Hill, with the nearby Portobello Road Market, is filled with designer clothes, antiques, and retro goods (be warned: it's packed at weekends).
The gay venues range from long-running pubs with oak and wood trimmings and long-legged bar stools to up-to-the-minute Euro-style restaurants. The cruise scene is thriving with an array of bars and saunas.
Last year's smoking ban in all public places led many venues to open terraces and outside smoking areas, some roofed and some with halogen fires to keep puffers warm on cooler nights. A new trend called "smurfing"
-- smoking with strangers and flirting in enclosed areas -- actually made me want to light-up a cigarette.
The world famous London Palladium is housing the first-ever Queer-tastic Variety Show on August 10, 2008. Expect well-known talent and some surprises from the likes of the Pet Shop Boys, Divine David, Simply
Barbra, John Barrowman, Wau Wau Sisters, Frankly Scarlet, Mommie Queerest, Justin Bond a.k.a. Kiki, and Pam Ann. You can be one of the first to receive a VIP invite if you email queervariety@yahoo.co.uk. Another exciting
theater event is the opening of Gone with the Wind, a musical based on the famous film. It's directed by the Trevor Nunn and has just started previews. Visit Gwtwthemusical.com for more info.
London Pride has its main event this year is on Saturday July 5 with a huge march, floats, and celebratory areas in the center of London. Other highlighted summer events are the Crusaid Walk for
Life event on June 1 to raise money for people in poverty dealing with HIV and AIDS. Challenge yourself with a 10 kilometer walk past London's finest sights; register free at Walk for Life.
Accommodations
While there are no exclusively gay hotels in central London, reasonably-priced gay-friendly accommodations (both hotels and B&Bs) can be found around the Russell Square and Kings Cross areas. The
gay-friendly Swinton Hotel (18 Swinton Street; +44-20-7837-1451), minutes from Kings Cross, offers modern, clean, and well-equipped rooms, breakfast included.
The centrally located Trafalgar Hilton Hotel (2 Spring Gardens; +44-0-20-7870-2900) is in the heart of the city. They offer a fantastic roof terrace and bar and the critically
acclaimed Rockwell restaurant. Prices can be high if you're on a budget, but they do have some special offers and more economical rooms when it's not peak season.
Griffin House (22 Stockwell Green; +44-020-7723-6532) offers two homey, bright, two-bedroom apartments (one self-contained), minutes away from Vauxhall. Prices start around �110
a night, so if there are two of you, it's a great deal. Your hosts: the friendly and efficient Nick and Ben and two lovely tabby cats and one dog.
Grim's Dyke Hotel (Old Redding, Harrow Weald, Middlesex; +44-020-8385-3100) is only 30 minutes from central London. The distance affords a grand country feel. The hotel is set within 40 acres
of tranquil gardens and woodland with gorgeous bluebell-lined paths. The Grim's Dyke Hotel has a host of rooms, some more traditional and some more modern with jacuzzi, flat-screen TV, and other slick amenities.
The gracious green grounds, home to wandering geese and ducks, make the Grim's Dyke a popular choice for civil partnership festivities.
Going out
Earls Court
Two venues recently closed in Earls Court: Bromptons Bar and the Philbeach Hotel. There is still a gay vibe, though with coffee shops and retail outlets serving the community, as well as restaurants, cruising clubs,
and some of London's most established bars.
Coleherne (261 Brompton Road) remains popular in the Earls Court Area. The daytimes are relaxed and friendly, while a cruisier feel permeates the darker hours.
Ted's Place (305a North End Road) opens from 7 p.m. most nights and is a favorite Earls Court's cruising club. There is an area zoned off with camouflage netting for cruising and there's a
sling, which is sometimes colorfully decorated for transvestite nights. Mondays, Tuesdays, and Fridays boast a leather look. Wednesdays are strictly underwear-only. Thursdays have become so successful and popular for
trans folk that Sundays are also now busy nights -- so watch for the colorful clothes and vibrant personalities.
SOHO AND THE WEST END
Yard Bar (57 Rupert Street) remains predominantly gay but there's always a mixture of ages, genders, and looks. The Yard has established itself as one of the longest-running bars in Soho, offering a light menu
and inside and outside areas for allow smoking. They are going through a slight make-over to create more seating and standing room, but remain open throughout all the decorative surgery. Thursday's Boogie Oogie Oogie is
a homage to disco. On Sundays funk and soul from 3 p.m., with DJs playing chilled music and creating a relaxed ambiance, helped along by subtle lighting as the night draws in. Adding to the calm is a plan to offer
Sunday masseurs soon. They're open most days from 1 p.m., and from 3 p.m. on Sundays.
The stylish Soho Revue Bar (11 Walkers Court) boasts regular events and shows, plus special nights, such as Trannyshack and Circus Circus with Jodie Harsh. Creena Defoouie will
be appearing on May 11 at 7:30 p.m.
Edge (11 Soho Square) has outdoor seating right next to Soho Square, and is packed with gay guys in the summer months.
Bar Code (3-4 Archer Street, just off Berwick Street), still going strong, has two floors, each hosting different events. Tuesdays downstairs it's Comedy Camp with the effervescent Simon Happily. Other nights host
top DJs and more. Bar Code has another branch in Vauxhall, mentioned below.
Kings Arms (23 Poland Street) attracts a friendly crowd of men who socialize and drink, enjoying the traditional English pub atmosphere.
Admiral Duncan (54 Old Compton Street) is a friendly London pub with personable staff and good prices and drinks specials. It's a good place to meet up with locals.
79 CXR (79 Charing Cross Road), right between Leicester Square and Soho, remains popular. In addition to weekend DJs, CXR is starting to have regular cabaret nights; Julie Paid was there when I popped in. The
outside seating area is well attended with the smoking crowd, and the doors are open all day as the summer begins.
Comptons Of Soho (51-52 Old Compton Street), exuding a masculine vibe, runs onto the street in the summer months with people outside with their pints.
Geisha (75 Charing Cross Road) is a new venue -- which boasts that it's for "fags, queers, chocolate-stabbers, shirt-lifters and up-hill gardeners." Geisha drips with glamour and decadence, with two split levels and
an overlooking DJ booth. They recently hosted the camp cabaret Oklahomo!
Kudos (10 Adelaide Street), modern and mixed, offers beautiful decor and a recently redesigned downstairs.
In Central London, Ku Bar (30 Lisle Street, just off Charing Cross Road) is a popular, lively, award-winning bar with cabaret and a subterranean club. State-of-the art video screens
play popular music (or, earlier in the day, football). Evenings get packed with the downstairs Ku Klub going into the early hours. Fridays you'll find Dusty O spinning her eclectic mix of pop and house. Outside there's a
convenient area for smoking. There are many drinks specials; Sundays through Thursdays it's just �1.50 for most drinks, including long drinks and draft lagers.
Lo-Profile (84-86 Wardour Street, basement) is a great contender for most innovative club recently opened. Join Project Catwalk 2007's winner Wayne for Club Couture on Thursdays, a night of high fashion and
glossy tailor-made fun and pretense.
For a young crowd, try G-A-Y at the London Astoria (157 Charing Cross Road, near Tottenham Court Road). Ru Paul just played a one-off gig here to packed audiences; celebrities seem to line up
to play this huge venue in central London.
Matinee hosts different events in London. Recently, Laleche, a sexy white party with DJ Oliver M and an appearance from Katherine Ellis, ran
at Fabric (77a Charterhouse Street). Check
their website for upcoming events.
NORTH LONDON
Black Cap (171 Camden High Street) is an upstairs bar serving a wide selection of food and drinks. The downstairs cabaret recently hosted Titty La Camp in Sunday Service, which went down like a storm.
On Friday and Saturday nights there's a packed dance floor playing happy house and pop songs
Longtime favorite Oak Bar (79 Green Lanes) is a great place for a more local scene in a traditional pub atmosphere.
At Central Station (37 Wharfdale Road, near Kings Cross) "no attitude and more latitude" is still the objective of club owners Martin and Duncan. Pop in for a pint early in the day and be sure of
a friendly crowd, or later at night when you can see top cabaret and strippers. Monday through Saturday features underwear parties from 1 to 6 p.m. downstairs, while Sundays host a full nude party in the first floor's
Cruise Loft. Every first Friday of the month enjoy "City Boys," an event for men who enjoy suits and ties! "Come to Daddy" is on each Wednesday and is for bigger guys and their admirers. Or sign up for the Adult Baby Club
for those who like to dress as babies.
VAUXHALL
Vauxhall has seen an explosion of gay venues.
Royal Vauxhall Tavern (372 Kennington Lane) is known worldwide for its innovative cabaret and performance nights. Divine David sets his acerbic tongue loose here on a weekly topic, recently proclaiming
himself "a champagne communist" as he sipped bubbly stuff and debated trade-unions and spoke harsh words on Western capitalism and sweatshops. On Sundays the air is redolent with poppers and shirtless men having fun
on the dance floor and at the bar. Watch soon for the talented Earl Grey performing on Saturdays.
Eagle (349 Kennington Lane) sits right around the corner and boasts resident DJs and lots of cruising. It's only �4 for guests and �2 for members.
XXL (51/53 Southwark Street) runs a host of nights for big guys and their admirers. The club has gained a respectable reputation for being the most friendly place in London. They are hosting a Bear
Pride (Bearpride.co.uk) event May 23 to 25.
Fire (South Lambeth Road) hosts many club nights. On Saturday night the infamous Horizon starts at 11 p.m. and runs until 11 a.m. the next morning, which then turns into Later from 11 a.m. The Orange night puts
20 DJs together playing four fierce rooms of music.
Depot (66 Albert Embankment) has taken over from Crash and has a range of cruise nights. They are holding a regular night once a month called Rent in collaboration with Rentboy.com; think
porn, sleaze, sex, and full-on fun.
South Central (349 Kennington Lane) has gained a reputation for being a traditional and friendly venue with masculine men who don't want to fuss and follow fashions.
Horse Meat Disco (67-68 Albert Embankment) is always busy; arrive early so you don't have to queue.
Further south, there's Two Brewers (114 Clapham High Street), seconds away from Clapham Common tube station, where they host club nights and cabaret. Sundays Laquisha Jonz performs for a night
called Double Penetration: The Power of 3, with three of the reigning queens of the cabaret scene: Kandi Kane Baxter, Sandra, and Dave Lynn.
Sex, saunas, and gyms
Portsea Sauna and Spa (2 Portsea Place, Marble Arch, off Edgware Road) is just off Oxford Street. Superbly run by the gorgeous and sexy David, Portsea has a
great staff and the best massages. There are private relaxation rooms and plenty of eye candy.
Chariots Roman Spa (1 Fairchild Street) is "England's biggest," now with locations in Waterloo (101 Lower Marsh Street), Streatham (292 Streatham High Road), Limehouse (574 Commercial Road), Farringdon
(57 Cowcross Street), Shoreditch (1 Fairchild Street), and Vauxhall (Rail Arches 63-64, Albert Embankment). Their Shoreditch location is huge, with an ample pool you can swim in and which is surrounded by
color-changing mood lighting. There's a small gym area and sun-beds too. The Shoreditch branch, with a capacity of 500 and 60 private rooms, also offers homemade food, an internet cafe, two video rooms, two dark rooms, two
steam rooms, and two jacuzzis. The Vauxhall premises really get crazy with a party crowd all weekend. The cozy Farringdon branch provides a nice city retreat for workers and locals, and the Liverpool Street branch is
spacious and always busy. Waterloo offers complimentary refreshments, and their staff is friendly and as cute as it gets!
Pleasuredrome (Arch 124 Cornwall) has recently revamped itself, creating state-of-the-art cruising facilities. Look for their new location opening soon in Vauxhall.
Paris Gym (73 Goding Street) is the only exclusively gay gym in London. They offer a day pass for �10 -- a great option if you want to use the sauna, gym, and showers --
and meet some like-minded guys, too. Note their new opening times: from 6:30 a.m. until 11 p.m. Monday to Friday, and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. until 10 and 8 p.m., respectively.
Eating out
In Earls Court, the Troubadour Cafe (265 Old Brompton Road) offers snacks, meals, and beverages in beautiful surroundings. There's a special feeling of warmth, with wooden furniture and natural decor
Balans West (239 Old Brompton Road) offers a wide variety of delightful dishes served by an equally dishy staff. There are daily specials and an � la carte menu with a full list of wines and alcohol.
Steph's Restaurant (39 Dean Street), a popular choice in West End dining, is becoming a top haunt for celebrities and for photo-shoots for top glossy magazines, too. Theater posters and memorabilia decorate
the walls, and many small dishes offering an array of tastes and flavors start at �5. Summertime outdoor tables are ever-popular.
Getti Restaurant (16 Jermyn Street) serves tasty Italian fare, wonderfully presented, with regular specials. There is an extensive international wine list.
First Out Cafe (52 St. Giles Street) is a diner and coffee shop that's a sociable spot just opposite Tottenham Court Road. They vend a wide selection of food and drinks to a mixed clientele of all ages. You can pick up lots
of flyers for clubs and events here as well as the gay newspapers and magazines.
Shopping and services
Clone Zone (266 Brompton Road and 64 Old Compton Street) offers fashions and fetish wear, as well as CDs, videos, books, and magazines. The shops are fun, with friendly staff who know the local scene well. Many
of London's special events do advance ticket sales through the Clone Zone shops.
Just opposite the Camden tube station, near the Black Cap, is the Blue Rose (4 Kentish Town Road), with toys, aromas, DVDs, and magazines. This is a place to get porn DVDs, like the recent Biker Boy, filmed
on-location in London Town. They're friendly and informative here, and it's within steps of the famous Camden Market, so definitely worth a visit.
Visit Prowler-Camden (5 Brewer Street), on the top of Rupert Street, and pick up everything a gay man could need. There's a wide selection of porno and toys in a private section of the shop. Tickets are available here for
club nights and events, there are free weekly papers and notices of events, and the window displays are fantastic.
Rob London (24 Wells Street) is full of outfits, t-shirts, vests, pants, and rubber stuff. Browse here for true novelty items.
The United Kingdom's largest gay book store Gay's the Word (66 Marchmont Street) is still going strong after many responded to last year's appeal to help with increasing rents and fees. Drop
by and support this vital community institution!
Herv� and Adnan at Guilty Kilts (Kingley Court, 2nd floor, off Carnaby Street) are now hosting fashion events and staging shows with men in kilts and other items from their collection. Look for them
at many London night spots in their effort to put every man in a kilt!
Looking your best
A welcome retreat while in Earls Court is
the London Institute (10 Warwick Road, Langham Mansions), right around the corner from the Colherne bar. Tariq is still leading the way in
state-of-the-art beauty and holistic treatments. Massage, laser hair and skin therapies, micro-dermabrasion, and quick and (relatively) painless hair removal by "sugaring" are available.
Mayfair Tanning (19 Denman Street) offers upright tanning booths, waxing, facials, and lavish body treatments. Prices are great. Try the St. Tropez spray tan -- a healthy way to get a sun-kissed look.
Alternatives Beauty Salon (231 Holloway Road) is now offering laser hair removal technology, along with laser treatment for sagging skin and skin in need of rejuvenation. Accupuncture
and hair styling and coloring are also available.
Studio Ladanza (89 Holloway Road) is still hosting their gay/lesbian and transgender school of dance. I went along to a fox-trot class; great fun for all skill levels and an ideal way to meet new friends.
A bit of al fresco fun...
Cruising on Hampstead Heath is still a place to hang out and meet other like-minded guys. Summer days bring gay picnics and cruising men here. Police monitor the area in the daytime, but be very careful at night. To
visit, take the tube from Camden to Hampstead on the Northern Line, walk up the hill to the former Jack Straws Castle (now a bar and apartments). You will see a small pond (which used to be a large drinking port for
horses). Feel free to wander.... If you're suitably cautious, it's a whole lot of fun.
Highgate Hill is a private male sunbathing area with a lake and nudist section, easily reachable from Archway Tube on the Northern Line. Once at the top the hill, ask for directions to Highgate Ponds. It's very safe here,
with lifeguards and enclosed areas for nude sun-bathing.
Summer in Earls Court Graveyard seems to be filled with men perched on benches and grass in the gothic atmosphere of the graveyard; it's cruising with character, and an easy way to chat up and meet other guys.
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