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If you missed out on a trip down the Volga river this summer, don't worry because even the long, cold winters in Russia promise to be exciting, especially if you spend them in the company of a Russian cadet.

At the age of 18, Sergei, born in a small remote town in Siberia, was drafted into army service which is still compulsory in Russia. At that time, he vaguely knew that gays existed. Two years later, Sergei was offering his services to gays in Moscow's park, getting 100 rubles (3 US dollars) per encounter, as much as his monthly salary while in uniform.

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Sergei remembers that one night his sergeant woke them and told them that it was impossible to live comfortably in Moscow with the money they were getting paid so he suggested that they find extra work.

"He told us about gay places-- clubs and cruising areas where men go for sex. Gays will pay 100 rubles for almost nothing but it is possible to earn as much as 500 rubles if you are ready for anything," Sergei said. "Of course, part of the money we made had to be given to the sergeant," he added.

In Kitay Park-- a busy cruising area in downtown Moscow-- almost every military unit located in the Russian capital is involved in male prostitution. Sometimes there is even fighting between groups of soldiers who come from different units and battle for a preferred cruising spot. They normally fight for the place closest to the parking lot.

More than a year ago, Russia introduced new regulations which banned homosexuals, drug addicts and alcoholics from serving in the armed forces. The new rules say people "who have problems with their identity and sexual preferences" can only be drafted during war times. The Russian million-strong army is made mainly of conscripts-- although all men aged 18 to 27 are eligible, fewer than half actually serve because many fear they will be sent to fight in Chechnya.

Only a decade ago Russian gays were reduced to the underground, but perestroika has made changes possible, homosexuality has been decriminalized, and general attitudes have become more tolerant.

Russian law was changed in 1993 to allow relations between consenting males over 18, but gays and lesbians cannot legally marry, adopt children or have parental rights over a partner's child. That is largely due to the Church which deems homosexuality to be a deadly sin, bans same-sex marriages and homosexual priests, and advocates barring gays and lesbians from teaching or senior army and prison posts.

Earlier, gays used to meet secretly in apartments while nowadays there are gay clubs, bars, saunas in several cities, particularly Moscow and St. Petersburg. The Soviet Criminal Code was used to discredit, blackmail, and silence intellectuals and other prominent people, as well as homosexuals.

Among the thousands of men sent to prison in the 1980s were archaeologist Lev Klein, singer Vadim Kozin, film director Sergei Paradzhanov, writer Gennady Trifonov, and a host of other Russian artists and intellectuals. Some were sent to mental institutions where electric shock treatment and other degrading rehabilitation methods were standard practice.

After the collapse of communism and the decriminalization of homosexuals, Russian gays have started to slowly and timidly get out of the closet, but there is still a long way to go to full emancipation and acceptance in a rather conservative society.

Contradictions abound. Thirty-four-year-old Vadim, returning to his native Moscow this spring after living in the US, was surprised to see the openness of gay life, embodied in the three men he saw kissing in a park on the Moscow River. But a moment later, three skinheads approached with menacing intent, sending the men scattering.

Russia claims to be a democratic government, but continues to deprive gay people of their basic rights to life, security and equality before the law. But many gays, particularly older gay people, still live in constant fear that homosexuality could be criminalized again which would make quite a few of them think twice before coming out.

Recently, the State Duma (parliament) rejected "sexual hatred" as the reason for criminal prosecution. In April this year, the bill to re-criminalize homosexuality was proposed by the Russian People's Party deputy, Gennady Raikov, chairman of the legislature's parliamentary ethics commission, who blames gay men for the increase in HIV/AIDS and the disintegration of the traditional family.

The State Duma civil, criminal, arbitral and remedial legislation committee issued the recommendation to the Chamber not to accept "sexual hatred" as a reason for criminal prosecution. The committee explained that "provoking sexual hatred and hostility can undermine the equal rights and freedoms of men and women, cause clashes between different social groups accepting other forms of sexuality."

And increasing state pressure on Russian media to toe the line have blown a chill wind on gay expression. Earlier this year, authorities shut down a highly-regarded text-only gay site about pederasty.

Gay activism in Russia is still quite weak, and inspired by Western models, some have travelled further out on the limb than Russian society seems currently able to support.

Six years ago, in Moscow, gays managed to unfurl the rainbow flag along with a large banner declaring "Free love for free Russia," which later prompted officials to refuse permits for gay marches.

Denis Gogolev and Mikhail Morozov staged their marriage last year with a Russian Orthodox Priest which resulted not only in the defrocking of the priest, but the chapel was reportedly bulldozed and burned down by order of the Orthodox Church.

Recently, Ed Mishin, a former technology journalist, launched Russia's first gay magazine, Kvir ("Queer"), and his next project is to set up Russia's first gay community center. Mishin said in an interview, "My goal is to build a strong gay community, like in America, and to make homosexuality a normal thing in Russia. We want to show people we are not always thinking about sex."

However, it is widely believed that it will take years until gays in Russia can enjoy the freedom and equal rights which have long existed in the West. In the meantime, those travelling to Moscow, St. Petersburg, and other Russian towns can enjoy the superb museums, opera, theater, and vodka.